Frequently Asked Questions

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Refrigeration

  • How do I remove/replace my refrigerator door(s)

    Use the directions below for your type of refrigerator.

    NOTE: There are three different refrigerator types. Type 1 is the standard door (one door swing), Type 2 is the French door (two doors), and Type 3 is the French door with exterior dispenser.

    Type 1 - Standard door (one door swing)

    Materials needed:
    • Phillips screwdriver
    • 5/16" hex head driver
    • 3/8" hex head driver
    • 1/4" hex head driver
    Freezer drawer models
    Door removal:
    1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power. Remove food and adjustable door or utility bins from the doors.

    2. Keep the refrigerator door closed until you are ready to lift it free from the cabinet.

      NOTE: Provide additional support for the door while the hinges are being moved. Do not depend on the door gasket magnets to hold the door in place while you are working.

    3. Remove the parts for the top hinge as shown in the top hinge graphic below. Lift the refrigerator door free from the cabinet.

      Top Hinges Freezer Drawer
    4. Remove the parts for the bottom hinge as shown in the bottom hinge graphic below.

      Bottom Hinges Freezer Drawer
    Door installation:
    1. Replace the parts for the bottom hinge as shown. Tighten screws.

      NOTE: Provide additional support for the door while the hinges are being moved. Do not depend on the door gasket magnets to hold the door in place while you are working.

      Bottom Hinges Freezer Drawer
    2. Assemble the parts for the top hinges as shown in the top hinge graphic below. Do not completely tighten screws.

      Top Hinges Freezer Drawer
    3. Adjust the door so that the bottom of the refrigerator door is aligned with the top of the freezer drawer. Tighten all screws.

      Electrical Shock Hazard
    4. Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.

    5. Return all removable door parts to door and food to refrigerator.

    Freezer door models
    Door removal:
    1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.

      NOTE: Provide additional support for the door while the hinges are being moved. Do not depend on the door gasket magnets to hold the door in place while you are working.

    2. Remove the parts for the top hinge as shown in the top hinge graphic below. Lift the refrigerator door free from the cabinet.

      Top Hinges Freezer Door
    3. Remove the as shown in the center hinge graphic center hinge pin and remove the hinge screwsbelow. Lift the freezer door free from the cabinet.

      Center Hinges Freezer Door
    4. Remove the parts for thebottom hinge as shown in the center hinge graphic below.

      Bottom Hinges Freezer Door
    Door installation:
    1. Replace the parts for thebottom hinge as shown. Tighten screws. Replace the freezer door.

      NOTE: Provide additional support for the door while the hinges are being moved. Do not depend on the door gasket magnets to hold the door in place while you are working.

      Bottom Hinges Freezer Door
    2. Assemble the parts for the center hinge as shown in the center hinge graphic below. Tighten all screws.

      Center Hinges Freezer Door
    3. Assemble the parts for the top hinge as shown in the top hinge graphic below. Do not completely tighten the screws.

      Top Hinges Freezer Door
    4. Adjust the door so that the bottom of the refrigerator door is aligned with the top of the freezer door. Tighten all screws.

      Electrical Shock Hazard
    5. Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.

    6. Return all removable door parts to door and food to refrigerator.

    Type 2- French door (two doors)

    Materials needed:
    • Phillips screwdriver
    • 5/16" hex head driver
    • 3/8" hex head driver
    • 1/4" hex head driver
    Electrical Shock Hazard
    Door removal:
    1. Unplug power cord from power source.

    2. Keep the refrigerator door closed until you are ready to lift it free from the cabinet.

      NOTE: Provide additional support for the doors while the hinges are being moved. Do not depend on the door gasket.

    3. Starting with the right-hand side door, remove the parts for the top hinge as shown in Top Hinge graphic below. Lift the refrigerator door from the bottom hinge pin.

      Top Hinges French Door
    4. Remove the shim (on some models) from the bottom hinge pin and keep it for later use. See Bottom Hinge graphic below.

      Bottom Hinges French Door
    5. Before removing the left-hand side door, disconnect the wiring plug located on top of the top hinge by wedging a flat-blade screwdriver or your fingernail between the two sections.See Wiring Plug graphic below.

      Wiring Plug French Door

      NOTE: The green, ground wire remains attached to the hinge.

    6. Remove the parts for the left-hand side door top hinge as shown in the Top Hinge graphic. Lift the door from the bottom hinge pin.

      Top Hinges French Door

      NOTE:On some models, remove the shim from the bottom hinge pin and keep it for later use. See Bottom Hinge graphic below.

      Bottom Hinges French Door
    Door installation:
    1. Install hinge assemblies.

      1. Loosely install top hinge with 5⁄16" hex head screws.

      2. Install center hinge with Phillips screws.

    2. Place hinge side of refrigerator door on center hinge pin.

    3. While holding refrigerator door upright, tighten down top hinge with 5⁄16" hex head driver.

    4. Reconnect two-pin connector.

    5. Replace top hinge covers.

      Electrical Shock Hazard
    6. Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.

    7. Return all removable door parts to door and food to refrigerator.

    Type 3 - French door with exterior dispensing

    Materials needed:
    • Phillips screwdriver
    • 5/16" hex head driver
    • 3/8" hex head driver
    • 1/4" hex head driver
    Door removal:

    IMPORTANT: Remove food and any adjustable door or utility bins from doors.
    Keep the refrigerator doors closed until you are ready to lift them free from the cabinet.

    NOTE: Provide additional support for the refrigerator door while the hinges are being removed. Do not depend on the door gasket magnets to hold the door in place while you are working.

    Electrical Shock Hazard
    1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.

    2. Starting with the right-hand side door, remove the parts for the top hinge as shown in graphic below. Lift the refrigerator door from the bottom hinge pin.

      Top Hinges Exterior Dispensing
    3. On some models, remove the shim from the bottom hinge pin and keep it for later use. See graphic below.

      Bottom Hinges Exterior Dispensing
    4. Remove top hinge cover from left side refrigerator door. Disconnect the wiring plug located on top of the hinge by wedging a flat-blade screwdriver or your fingernail between the two sections. See graphic below.

      Connections Exterior Dispensing
    5. Disconnect the water line by holding the tabbed section of the water line while turning the black locking collar clockwise. See graphic below.

      Connections Exterior Dispensing
    6. Remove the parts for the top hinge as shown in graphic below. Lift the left-hand side door from the bottom hinge pin.

      Top Hinges Exterior Dispensing

      NOTE: On some models, remove the shim from the bottom hinge pin and keep it for later use. See graphic below.

      Bottom Hinges Exterior Dispensing
    7. Using a 3/8" hex wrench, remove the leveling leg brackets from the bottom of the cabinet. Keep screws for later use.

    Door installation:
    1. Assemble the parts for the top hinge as shown in Top Hinge graphic. Do not completely tighten the screws.

      Top Hinges Exterior Dispensing
    2. Replace the parts for the bottom hinge as shown in Bottom Hinge graphic. Tighten screws. Replace the refrigerator door.

      Bottom Hinges Exterior Dispensing

      NOTE: Provide additional support for the refrigerator door while the hinges are being moved. Do not depend on the door gasket magnets to hold the door in place while you are working.

    3. Align the door so that the bottom of the refrigerator door aligns evenly with the top of the freezer drawer. Tighten all screws.

    4. Reconnect the wiring plug on top of the left-hand side refrigerator door.

    5. Reconnect the water lines by firmly pushing one line inside the other. Slide the black locking collar fully forward

      .
    6. While holding the tabbed section of the water line, turn the locking collar counterclockwise until you hear a "click."

      NOTE: The arrow on the tabbed section should align with the two bars on the locking collar.

    7. Check for leaks. Replace the top hinge covers.

      Electrical Shock Hazard
    8. Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.

    9. Return all removable door parts to door and food to refrigerator.

  • Water supply hookup - Side by side refrigerator

    Read all directions before you begin. You will need to identify the style of water connection you have. The styles are shown below in Step 2 in "Steps to connect a refrigerator to a water supply."

    Tools needed:
    • 7/16" and 1/2" open-end or two adjustable wrenches
    Parts needed:
    • Style 1 (see styles below): Household water line including a nut and ferrule
      " x " Coupling (provided on some models; attached to the tubing on the back)
    • Style 2: Household water line including a nut and ferrule
      " x " Coupling (provided on some models; attached to the tubing on the back)
    • Style 3: No parts needed
    IMPORTANT:
    • If operating the refrigerator before installing the water connection, turn the ice maker to the Off position to avoid operation without water.
    • Use copper tubing only.
    • Install tubing only in areas where temperatures will remain above freezing.
    • All installations must be in accordance with local plumbing code requirements.
    • The ice maker needs to be connected to a cold water line with water pressure between 30 and 120 psi. To check for adequate water pressure, you should be able to dispense about 3 to 6 ounces in 5 seconds. If the refrigerator does not have a dispenser, check the water pressure using the water supply line, if possible. The " water supply line should dispense at least 9 ounces of water in 5 seconds.
    • If a reverse-osmosis filtration system is connected to your water supply, the water pressure to the system needs to be a minimum of 40-60 psi (276-414 kPa). If the water pressure to the reverse-osmosis system is less than 40 to 60 psi:
      • Check to see whether the sediment filter in the reverse-osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if necessary.
      • Allow the storage tank on the reverse-osmosis system to refill after heavy use.
      • Check to see if your refrigerator has a water filter cartridge, which may reduce the water pressure when used in conjunction with a reverse-osmosis system. Remove the water filter cartridge supplied with the refrigerator.

    Steps to connect a refrigerator to a water supply:

    1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
    2. For Style 1:
      For Style 1

      Attach the copper tube to the valve inlet using a compression nut and sleeve. You will first need to remove the plug (if one is present) to access the valve inlet. Tighten the compression nut. Do not overtighten. Use the tube clamp on the back of the refrigerator to secure the tubing to the refrigerator. This will help prevent damage to the tubing when the refrigerator is pushed back against the wall.

      For Style 2:
      For Style 2

      If the gray water tube supplied with the refrigerator is not long enough, a " x " (6.35mm x 6.35mm) coupling is needed in order to connect the water tubing to an existing household water line. Thread the provided nut onto the coupling on the end of the copper tubing. You will first need to remove the plug (if one is present) from the end of the refrigerator tubing.

      NOTE: Tighten the nut by hand. Then tighten it with a wrench two more turns. Do not overtighten.

      For Style 3:
      For Style 3

      Thread the provided nut onto the water valve as shown. You will first need to remove the plug (if one is present) from the end of the refrigerator tubing.

      NOTE: Tighten the nut by hand. Then tighten it with a wrench two more turns. Do not overtighten.

    3. Turn on the water supply. Check for leaks. Tighten any connections (including connections at the valve) or nuts that leak.
    4. Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.

    NOTE: It may take up to 24 hours for your ice maker to begin producing ice.

    After connecting the refrigerator to a water source or replacing the water filter, flush the water system. Use a sturdy container to depress and hold the water dispenser lever for 5 seconds, and then release it for 5 seconds. Repeat until water begins to flow. Once water begins to flow, continue depressing and releasing the dispenser lever (5 seconds on, 5 seconds off) until a total of 3 gal. (12 L) has been dispensed. This will flush air from the filter and water dispensing system, and prepare the water filter for use. Additional flushing may be required in some households. As air is cleared from the system, water may spurt out of the dispenser.

    Dispensing
  • Adjusting temperature controls - Side by side refrigerator

    There are several types of controls. Read the answer in its entirety to properly identify which section relates to your refrigerator's control type.

    Note: The preset factory settings should be correct for normal household refrigerator usage. The controls are set correctly when milk or juice is as cold as you like and when ice cream is firm. If temperature adjustments are made it can take up to 24 hours for the refrigerator to respond.

    Knob controls located in the top of the refrigerator compartment:

    For your convenience, your controls are preset at the factory to the "mid-settings" as shown.

    Knob Controls
    Adjusting knob controls:

    Style 1: Turn theFreezer or Refrigeratorknob to the right (clockwise) to make the compartment colder or left (counterclockwise) to make it less cold depending on the needed temperature change.

    Style 2: Push the control button on the side of the control box and release it. The control will pop out. Turn the control to the desired setting. Push the control in to lock it into place.

    Wait at least 24 hours between adjustments. Recheck the temperatures before other adjustments are made.

    Condition/Reason: Setting Adjustment:
    Refrigerator too cold Refrigerator control one setting lower
    Refrigerator too warm Refrigerator control one setting higher
    Freezer too cold Freezer control one setting lower
    Freezer too warm/too little ice Freezer control one setting higher

    Slide controls located in the top of the refrigerator compartment:

    For your convenience, your controls are preset at the factory to the "mid-settings" as shown.

    Slide Controls
    Adjusting slide controls:

    Slide the Freezer or Refrigerator control one setting to the right or left depending on the needed temperature change.

    • Slide the control one setting to the right to make the compartment colder.
    • Slide the control one setting to the left to make the compartment warmer.

    Wait at least 24 hours between adjustments. Recheck the temperatures before other adjustments are made.

    Condition/Reason: Setting Adjustment:
    Refrigerator too cold Refrigerator control one setting lower
    Refrigerator too warm Refrigerator control one setting higher
    Freezer too cold Freezer control one setting lower
    Freezer too warm/too little ice Freezer control one setting higher
    Digital controls located in the top of the refrigerator compartment:

    For your convenience, your controls are preset at the factory to the recommended set points of 0oF (-18C) for the freezer and 37oF (3C) for the refrigerator.

    Digital Controls

    Adjusting digital controls:

    Press the refrigerator or freezer Up/Down arrow or Plus (+)/Minus (-)sign until the desired temperature is reached.

    • The set point range for the freezer is -5F to 5F (-21C to -15C).
    • The set point range for the refrigerator is 33F to 41F.

    Wait at least 24 hours between adjustments. Recheck the temperature before other adjustments are made.

    Condition/Reason: Setting Adjustment:
    Refrigerator too cold Refrigerator control 1 higher
    Refrigerator too warm Refrigerator control 1 lower
    Freezer too cold Freezer control 1 higher
    Freezer too warm/too little ice Freezer control 1 lower

    Electroniccontrols located in the top of the refrigerator compartment:

    For your convenience, your controls are preset at the factory to the recommended set points of 4 for the freezer and4 for the refrigerator.

    Electronic Controls
    Adjusting electronic controls:

    Press the refrigerator or freezer Up/Down arrow until the desired temperature is reached.

    • The set point range is 1 to 7.

    Wait at least 24 hours between adjustments. Recheck the temperature before other adjustments are made.

    Condition/Reason: Setting Adjustment:
    Refrigerator too cold Refrigerator control one setting lower
    Refrigerator too warm Refrigerator control one setting higher
    Freezer too cold Freezer control one setting lower
    Freezer too warm/too little ice Freezer control one setting higher

    Digital controls located on the dispenser panel on the freezer door:

    For your convenience, your controls are preset at the factory to the recommended set points of 0F (-18C) for the freezer and 37F (3C) for the refrigerator. To view set points, press the Temperature button on your dispenser panel.

    Freezer Door Controls
    Adjusting digital controls:

    To adjust the set points, press and hold the Temperature button for 3 seconds. When adjust mode is activated, set points and adjusting information will appear on the display screen.

    Freezer Door Controls

    To adjust the refrigerator compartment temperature,use the Lock and Fast Ice/Cool buttons.

    • Press Lock to lower the set point.
    • Press Fast Ice/Cool to raise the set point.

    NOTE: The set point range for the refrigerator is 33F to 45F(1C to 7C).

    To adjust the freezer compartment temperature, use the Ice and Light buttons.

    • Press Ice to lower the set point.
    • Press Light to raise the set point.

    NOTE: The set point range for thefreezer is -5F to 5F (-21C to -15C).

    Wait at least 24 hours between adjustments. Recheck the temperature before other adjustments are made.

    Condition/Reason: Setting Adjustment:
    Refrigerator too cold Refrigerator control 1 higher
    Refrigerator too warm Refrigerator control 1 lower
    Freezer too cold Freezer control 1 higher
    Freezer too warm/too little ice Freezer control 1 lower

    Press Temperature to exit adjust mode, or allow about 15 seconds of inactivity and adjust mode will turn off automatically.

    LCD controls located on the dispenser panel on the freezer door:

    The refrigerator and freezer control buttons are located on the dispenser panel.

    IMPORTANT: The display screen on the dispenser control panel will turn off automatically and enter "sleep" mode when the control buttons and dispenserlevershave not been used for 2 minutes or more. While in "sleep" mode, the first press of a control button will only reactivate the display screen, without changing any settings. After reactivation, changes to any settings can then be made. If no changes are made within 2 minutes, the display will re-enter "sleep" mode.

    • Touch any control button on the dispenser panel to activate the display screen. The home screen will appear as shown.
    LCD Controls
    Adjusting the Controls

    For your convenience, your refrigerator and freezer controls are preset at the factory. When you first install your refrigerator, make sure that the controls are still set to the "mid-settings." The factory recommended set points are 37F (3C) for the refrigerator and 0F (-18C) for the freezer.

    IMPORTANT:
    • Wait 24 hours before you put food into the refrigerator. If you add food before the refrigerator has cooled completely, your food may spoil.

      NOTE: Adjusting the set points to a colder than recommended setting will not cool the compartments any faster.

    • If the temperature is too warm or too cold in the refrigerator or freezer, first check the air vents to be sure they are not blocked before adjusting the controls.
    • The preset settings should be correct for normal household usage. The controls are set correctly when milk or juice is as cold as you like and when ice cream is firm.
    • Wait at least 24 hours between adjustments. Recheck the temperatures before other adjustments are made.

    To view and adjust the set points, press and hold the TEMP button for 3 seconds. When adjust mode is activated, adjusting information will appear on the display screen.

    LCD Controls

    NOTE: To view Celsius temperatures, press the LIGHT button when adjust mode is activated. To return the display setting to Fahrenheit, press LIGHT again.

    • When adjust mode is activated, the display screen shows the refrigerator set point and "FRIDGE" appears.
    • Press LOCK to raise the set point, or press FAST ICE to lower the set point.
    • When you have finished viewing (and adjusting if desired) the refrigerator set point, press TEMP to change the display to show the freezer set point. When the zone has been changed, "FREEZER" appears on the display screen.
    • Press LOCK to raise the set point, or press FAST ICE to lower the set point.
    • When you have finished viewing (and adjusting if desired) both the refrigerator and freezer set points, press FILTER to save the settings.

    NOTE: To exit without saving changes, press ICE TYPE at any time while in adjust mode, or allow about 60 seconds of inactivity and adjust mode will turn off automatically.

    When adjusting temperature set points, use the following chart as a guide.

    Condition/Reason: Setting Adjustment:
    Refrigerator too cold Refrigerator control 1 higher
    Refrigerator too warm Refrigerator control 1 lower
    Freezer too cold Freezer control 1 higher
    Freezer too warm/too little ice Freezer control 1 lower

    The set point range for the refrigerator is 33F to 45F (0C to 7C). The set point range for the freezer is -5F to 5F (-21C to -15C)

    .
  • Replacing your water filter

    NOTE: Consult your Use and Care Guide for replacement filter information.
    Based on your refrigerator type and where your filter is located, you may have to push, turn or pull to remove your filter.

    Filter 1 (Side by Side Refrigerator)
    Filter 1
    1. Lift open the filter cover door. The filter will be released and then eject as the door is opened.
    2. When the door is completely open, pull the filter straight out. NOTE: there may be some water in the filter. Some spilling may occur. Use a towel to wipe up any spills
    3. Take the new filter out of its packaging and remove the covers from the O-rings. Be sure the O-rings are still in place after the covers are removed.
    4. With the arrow pointing up, align the new filter with the filter housing and slide it into place. The filter cover door will automatically begin to close as the new filter is inserted.
    5. Close the filter cover door completely in order to snap the filter in place. You may need to press hard.
    6. Flush the water system until a total of 3 gal. (12 L) has been dispensed.
    Push Button Filter
    Filter 2
    1. Push the eject button, then pull the filter cap. Do not twist cap.
    2. Remove the filter cap by turning it counter clockwise. Set aside cap. Discard old filter.
    3. Remove the packaging and O-ring covers from the new filter.
    4. Align arrows on the cap and new filter. Turn clockwise to snap in place.
    5. Push filter into the base grill until the eject button pops. Gently tug on cap to ensure it is snug.
    6. Flush the water system until a total of 3 gal. (12 L) has been dispensed.
    Bottom Freezer / French Door Filter
    Filter 3
    1. Locate the filter in the upper right corner of the fresh food compartment.
    2. There are two cover types: PUSH or PULL. If the word PUSH isn't on the cover, it's a PULL
    3. To open PUSH cover: push the tab in and down. To open PULL cover: pull forward gently.
    4. Turn the filter counterclockwise until it releases. Drain water from old filter in sink and discard.
    5. Remove the packaging and sealing label from the new filter.
    6. Insert filter by gently rotating clockwise until it stops. Snap filter door closed
    7. Flush the water system until a total of 3 gal. (12 L) has been dispensed.
    Quarter Turn Filter
    Filter 4
    1. Rotate the cap counterclockwise to a vertical position, then pull.
    2. Remove the filter cap by sliding it right or left. Set aside cap. Discard old filter.
    3. Remove the packaging and O-ring covers from the new filter. Slide the filter cap back onto the end. Align the ridge on the filter with the ridge on the cap to make certain it is centered.
    4. Hold the assembled cap and filter unit with the handle in the vertical position and push the new filter cartridge into the opening of the base grille until it stops. Rotate the cartridge cap clockwise to a horizontal position
    5. Flush the water system until a total of 3 gal. (12 L) has been dispensed.

    All Genuine Amana Water Filters retain beneficial fluoride and are NSF Certified for removing chlorine taste and odor, particulates, lead, mercury and more. Amana also has available for purchase cyst-removal filters for your added protection.

    To ensure glass after glass of clean, refreshing ice and water, change your filter every six months.

  • How to level your refrigerator

    Depending on your model, your refrigerator may have two front adjustable rollers (Style 1), four adjustable rollers (Style 2) or two rear adjustable rollers and two front leveling screws (Style 3) located at the base of the refrigerator. If your refrigerator seems unsteady or you want the door to close more easily, use the instructions below.

    Excessive Weight Hazard

    Style 1 - Freezer door models

    1. Remove the base grille. Firmly grasp the grille and pull it toward you.
    2. Remove the bracket cover. Insert the eraser end of a pencil in the cover notch. Apply slight downward pressure to the notched side of the cover while swinging it off.
    3. Freezer Door
    4. Use a screwdriver or 3/8" hex driver to turn the roller adjustment screw(s) on each side to raise or lower that side of the refrigerator.

      NOTE: Having someone push against the top of the refrigerator takes some weight off the adjustment screws and rollers; this makes it easier to turn the screws.

      • To raise the refrigerator, turn the roller adjustment screw to the right (clockwise).
      • To lower the refrigerator, turn the roller adjustment screw to the left (counterclockwise).
    5. Front Leveling Screw
    6. Turn both brake feet clockwise until they firmly touch the floor; this will keep the refrigerator from rolling forward when the freezer door is pulled open.
    7. Open the refrigerator door(s) and make sure they close as easily as you like. If not, slightly tilt the refrigerator to the rear by turning both front adjustment screws to the right. It may take several more turns, and you should turn both adjustment screws the same amount. Readjust the brake feet as necessary (step 4).
    8. Replace the bracket cover. Place the bracket cover into the outer edge, swing the cover toward the cabinet, and snap it into place.
    9. Replace the base grille.

    Style 2 - Freezer drawer models

    1. Remove the base grille. Firmly grasp the grille and pull it toward you.
    2. Freezer Drawer
    3. Using a 3/8" hex driver, raise or lower the front roller adjustment screws (B) as necessary to level the refrigerator. After the front is level, adjust rear adjustment screws (A) as necessary so the refrigerator is level and does not rock from side to side. Turn both brake feet (C) clockwise until they firmly touch the floor; this will keep the refrigerator from rolling forward when the freezer drawer is pulled open.

      NOTE: Having someone push against the top of the refrigerator takes some weight off the adjustment screws and rollers. This makes it easier to turn the screws.

      • To raise the refrigerator, turn the roller adjustment screw to the right (clockwise).
      • To lower the refrigerator, turn the roller adjustment screw to the left (counterclockwise).
    4. Rear Leveling Screw
    5. Open the door to make sure that it closes as easily as you like. If not, slightly tilt the refrigerator to the rear by turning both front adjustment screws to the right. It may take several more turns, and you should turn both adjustment screws the same amount. Readjust the brake feet as necessary (step 3).
    6. Replace the base grille.

    Style 3 - Freezer drawer models (on select models)

    1. Remove the base grille. Grasp the grille firmly and pull it toward you.
    2. Raise or lower the cabinet. Using a " hex driver, turn the leveling screw on each side to raise or lower that side of the refrigerator.

      NOTE: Having someone push against the top of the refrigerator takes some weight off the leveling screws. This makes it easier to turn the screws. It may take several turns of the leveling screw to adjust the tilt of the refrigerator.

      • To raise the refrigerator, turn the leveling screw clockwise.
      • To lower the refrigerator, turn the leveling screw counterclockwise.
    3. Open the door again to make sure that it closes as easily as you like. If not, tilt the refrigerator slightly more to the rear by turning both leveling screws clockwise. It may take several more turns, and you should turn both screws the same amount.
    4. Replace the base grille.
  • Ice dispenser not dispensing ice

    Is the refrigerator making ice?

    Verify that your refrigerator is making ice by checking the Ice Bin.

    Is the dispenser locked? (On some models)

    Make sure the dispenser is not locked. Some models have a lock feature that deactivates the dispenser levers and control buttons. The lock button is on the dispenser front cover. This feature controls unintentional dispensing during cleaning. Press the "Unlock" or "Locked" button to reactivate the dispenser levers and allow dispenser function.

    Was there a recent power outage?

    If there has been a recent power outage or the power supply has been off for more than 1 hour, the power outage indicator (on some models) will disable the dispenser function. The dispenser display will read "PF" to indicate power failure. To use the dispenser, press and hold the Reset button for 3 seconds until you hear the beeps.

    Is ice jammed in the chute?

    Make sure ice is not stuck in the ice chute. The ice chute can build up ice flakes over time due to the use of crushed ice.

    If your model has the crushed ice feature (on some models) and you're requesting crushed ice, a jammed cube can sometimes stall the crusher. Switch to 'cube' and dispense for a few seconds. Switch back to 'crush' and this should clear the jam.

    The ice chute is located on the inside of the freezer door and is accessible by removing the ice storage bin. Use only a plastic utensil to remove ice from the ice chute. Do not use anything sharp to remove ice as this may damage the ice chute.

    Ice Chute Combo Explosion Hazard

    Once large clumps or cubes are removed, use a warm, wet cloth to wipe the inside of the ice chute. After removing any ice build-up, dry the ice chute by wiping it with a clean, dry cloth to prevent additional ice formation.

    Is ice clumping in the ice bin?

    Make sure that ice is not clumping or sticking together in the ice bin. If it is, shake the ice bin to separate the cubes. If the cubes do not separate, empty the ice bin and clean it. Allow 24 hours for the ice bin to refill.

    Check that ice is not melted around the auger. The auger is the metal spiral object in the ice bin. If it is, dispose of the ice cubes and clean the ice bin. Do not try to remove the melted ice with a sharp object as this may damage the ice bin. Allow 24 hours for the ice bin to refill.

    It is recommended that you perform a regular inspection and cleaning of the ice chute and the ice bin to prevent ice build-up. This inspection should be done approximately every 2 weeks

    .

    NOTE: Ice clumping in the bin or around the auger may be a result of the freezer door not completely shutting or the ice chute door being stuck open. Make sure the freezer door is completely closing and that ice is not stuck in the ice chute.

  • Water dispenser not working - Side by side refrigerator

    If the refrigerator was recently installed, be sure that it is connected to a water supply and the shutoff valve or saddle valve is turned on. Also confirm water flow through the valve. The " water supply line should deliver at least 9 ounces of water in 5 seconds. If not, the water pressure is low.

    Excessive Weight Hazard

    Saddle/shutoff valves are often located either behind the refrigerator or under the sink. Other locations include such places as the basement or crawl space.

    valve image

    After connecting the refrigerator to water source or replacing the water filter, flush the water system. Use a sturdy container to depress and hold the water dispenser lever for 5 seconds, then release it for 5 seconds. Repeat until water begins to flow. Once water begins to flow, continue to press and release the dispenser bar (5 seconds on, 5 seconds off) until a total of 3 gal. (12 L) has been dispensed. This will flush air from the filter and water dispensing system, and prepare the water filter for use. Additional flushing may be required in some households. As air is cleared from the system water may spurt out of the dispenser.

    Make sure the dispenser is not locked. Some models have a lock feature that deactivates the dispenser levers and control buttons. The lock button is on the dispenser front cover. This feature controls unintentional dispensing during cleaning. Press the Unlock or Locked button to reactivate the dispenser levers and allow dispenser function. You may need to hold the button for 2 to 3 seconds.

    If there has been a recent power outage or the power supply has been off for more than one hour, the power outage indicator (on some models) will disable the dispenser function. The dispenser display will read "PF" to indicate power failure. To use the dispenser, press and hold the "Reset" button for 3 seconds until you hear the beeps.

    A clogged or incorrectly installed water filter will reduce the water flow to the water dispenser. Check for a problem with the filter by removing the filter and operating the dispenser. If water begins to flow, then the filter is either clogged or incorrectly installed. A clogged filter will need to be replaced.

    If the filter is clogged and you are not able to immediately replace it, leave the filter out so the water system is in bypass mode. With the filter removed, the water system will continue to operate, bypassing the filter, and the clogged filter will not cause slow water dispensing. However, in order to have filtered water, you will need to install a new filter.

    NOTE: Consult your Use and Care Guide for replacement filter information.

    filter image

    A kinked water supply line will reduce water flow. Make sure the water supply line is not kinked.

    • If the refrigerator was recently pulled out of position and moved back, the supply line to the dispenser may have become kinked.

    Connecting a refrigerator to a reverse-osmosis system could lower the water pressure to the refrigerator, which will result in reduced flow to the dispenser. The water pressure to the reverse-osmosis system should be at least 40-60 psi (275-414 kPa). If connected to a reverse-osmosis system, the following items may improve the water pressure:

    • Allow the storage tank on the reverse-osmosis system to refill after heavy use. Allow 24 hours for the temperature to adjust.
    • If the refrigerator also has a water filter, remove it.
    • Make sure the sediment filter in the reverse-osmosis system is not blocked. Replace if necessary.

    If no other obvious obstructions exist, the dispenser water tubes running to the dispenser may be frozen. Adjust the controls 1 or 2 settings warmer and allow 24 hours for the refrigerator's temperature to adjust.

  • Removing and replacing refrigerator handles - French door, and French door refrigerator with exterior dispenser

    If your refrigerator handle(s) feel loose, follow the directions below for removing and replacing the handles.

    NOTE: There are two different styles. Style 1 (Metal Handles), requires a 3/32" Allen wrench to tighten loose handles. Style 2 (Plastic Handles), no tools are required to remove the handle, but a Phillips-head screwdriver is required for reattaching the handles.

    Style 1 - Metal Handles

    To remove handles:
    1. Using a 3⁄32" Allen wrench, loosen the two set screws located on the side of each handle. See Metal Handle graphics 1 and 2.
    2. Pull the handle straight out from the door. Make sure to keep the screws for reattaching the handles.
    3. To replace the handles, reverse the directions.
    4. Metal Handle Metal Handle

    Style 2 - Plastic Handles

    To remove handles:

    For vertical refrigerator handles, (graphic 1) firmly grasp the lower part of the handle, slide the handle upward, and pull the handle straight out from the door. For horizontal freezer handles, (graphic 2) firmly grasp the right side of the handle, slide it to the left, and pull straight out from the door. See Plastic Handle graphics 1 and 2.

    Plastic Handle Plastic Handle
    To replace handles:
    1. Before reattaching the handles, make sure the metal clip on each end of the handle is tight. If one or both clips feel loose, make sure each Phillips-head screw is hand tightened. There are two screws at each end of the handle that hold the clip. See picture below to locate the screws.

      step one image
    2. In order to align the door-handle clip with the door studs, position the handle so that the large holes in the mounting clips are down on both ends of the handle and align the holes with the door studs.

      step two image
    3. Rotate the handle so that the mounting clips are flat against the door.

      step three image
    4. Firmly grasp the handle and slide it downward.

      step four image
  • Reset the water filter indicator - Side by side refrigerator

    The water filter status light or indicator, present on some models, will help you know when to change your water filter. The light, or indicator, is located on the temperature control panel in the refrigerator compartment or on the dispenser control panel on the freezer door.

    The indicator will be one of two styles.
    • If the indicator is a light or series of lights, the light will change from green to yellow. This tells you this it is almost time to change your filter. It is recommended that you replace the filter when the status light changes to red, or when water flow to your water dispenser or ice maker noticeably decreases.
    • If the indicator resembles a stack of bars, the bar height will decrease and the status display will change from "Good" to "Order" when it is almost time to change the filter. Replace the water filter cartridge when the filter status display changes to "Replace," or when water flow to your water dispenser or ice maker noticeably decrease.

    Most models also have a filter indicator reset button located in the same area. After changing the filter, reset the filter status light by pressing the Filter Indicator Reset button or by pressing and holding the Filter button for 3 seconds. The status light will change from red to green or the status display will change from "Replace" to "Good" when the system is reset.

    If your model has a water filter indicator, but no reset button, press the light switch in the refrigerator compartment 5 times within 10 seconds to reset the system. The status light will change from red to green when the system is reset.

    reset switch

    Flushing the Filter

    After connecting the refrigerator to a water source or replacing the water filter, flush the water system. Use a sturdy container to depress and hold the water dispenser lever for 5 seconds, and then release it for 5 seconds. Repeat until water begins to flow. Once water begins to flow, continue depressing and releasing the dispenser lever (5 seconds on, 5 seconds off) until a total of 3 gal. (12 L) has been dispensed. This will flush air from the filter and water dispensing system, and prepare the water filter for use. Additional flushing may be required in some households. As air is cleared from the system, water may spurt out of the dispenser

    . reset switch
  • Moisture on the outside of my refrigerator - Bottom freezer

    A minimal amount of condensation is normal, especially during higher humidity conditions. If you live in a humid area, it is normal for your refrigerator to have a certain amount of humidity on the freezer or refrigerator.

    Humid room air causes moisture to build, especially when the doors are frequently opened. To avoid excess moisture buildup, minimize door openings. Get all items out at one time, keep food organized, and close the door as soon as possible. An improper seal of the gaskets on the refrigerator or freezer doors could also cause humidity to form. Check the seal around the outside doors and the freezer door to make sure nothing is obstructing the gasket seal.

    If humidity continues, the temperature controls may be set too low.

    Moisture may also collect on the center mullion (divider between the freezer and refrigerator compartments) and the refrigerator cabinet flanges during periods of high humidity. Wipe surfaces dry as needed.

    fridge image inside fridge image door fridge image inside with door
    Energy Saver option (on select French-door models)

    The refrigerator uses more energy when the Energy Saver option has been turned off because a heater in the vertical mullion is running to help reduce moisture. The Energy Saver feature turns off the vertical mullion heater.

    energy saver
    To use the Energy Saver option:
    • Press the control to On to save energy when the environment is less humid.
    • Press the control to Off when the environment is warm and more humid, or if moisture is noticed on the vertical mullion.
  • How do I move my refrigerator

    Excessive Weight Hazard

    Your refrigerator is heavy. When moving the refrigerator for cleaning or service, be sure to protect the floor. Always pull the refrigerator straight out when moving it. Do not wiggle or walk the refrigerator when trying to move it because floor damage could occur.

    Preparing for the move
    1. If your refrigerator has an automatic ice maker:

      • Turn off the water supply to the ice maker at least one day ahead of time.
      • Disconnect the water line from the back of the refrigerator.
      • When the last load of ice drops, raise the wire shutoff arm to the Off (up) position or press the switch to Off, depending on your model.
      Ice Maker
    2. Remove all food from the refrigerator and pack all frozen food in dry ice.
    3. Empty the ice bin.
    4. Turn off the Temperature controls.
    5. Unplug the refrigerator. Explosion Hazard
    6. Clean, wipe, and thoroughly dry.
    7. Take out all removable parts, wrap them well, and tape them together so they don't shift and rattle during the move.
    8. Depending on the model, raise the front of the refrigerator so it rolls more easily, or screw in the leveling legs so they don't scrape the floor.
    9. Tape the doors closed and tape the power cord to the back of the refrigerator.

    When you get to your new home, put everything back and refer to the Installation Instructions section of your Use and Care Guide for preparation instructions. Also, if your refrigerator has an automatic ice maker, remember to reconnect the water supply to the refrigerator.

    Transporting your refrigerator

    Do not transport refrigerator on its side. If an upright position is not possible, lay refrigerator on its back. Allow the refrigerator to sit upright for at least 30 minutes before plugging it in to assure oil returns to the compressor. Immediately plugging in the refrigerator may cause damage to internal parts.

  • No lights inside refrigerator - Side by side refrigerator

    If the refrigerator is getting power, the refrigerator compartment light should come on when the door is open.

    If the refrigerator compartment light does not come on and the refrigerator does not appear to be cooling, check the following.

    Electrical Shock Hazard
    • Make sure the refrigerator is plugged into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
    • Check the outlet. Does anything work using that outlet?
    • Check that the circuit breaker is not tripped.
    • Interior lights on some models will turn off if the door is left open for more than 10 minutes. Close and re-open the door to make sure the light comes back on.

    If the refrigerator compartment light does not come on but the refrigerator is cooling, make sure the light switch inside the refrigerator compartment or freezer compartment is not stuck in the closed position.

    The light switches (on some models) are located on the ceiling inside the freezer compartment or on the outer wall inside the refrigerator compartment.

    Light Switch Fridge

    NOTE: If these are not the locations of your refrigerator's light switches, the light switch is likely not the reason for the lights being off.

    If the light switch appears to be stuck in the closed position (flush with the compartment wall or ceiling), use the small lip on the end of the switch to gently pull and release the switch.

    Light Switch Diagram

    Operating the switch several times should resolve any sticking that may occur.

  • Why is there frost or ice buildup in my freezer compartment

    Small ice droplets on the freezer walls and on the back panel are normal.

    If frost buildup is occurring in the freezer compartment, check for the following:

    • Frost will likely build up if the door is left open for a period of time. Make sure the door is closing completely and is not blocked by something between the door gasket and cabinet.
    • Opening the door frequently can let in humid room air. Opening the door less often will help, but may not completely eliminate frost or ice in the freezer. During months of high humidity (especially if a home is not air-conditioned), it is normal to see some frost and sweating on the interior walls or on food packages.

    Make sure the air vents between the freezer and refrigerator compartments are not blocked. Objects blocking the vents will cause a decrease in proper air circulation which can cause temperature and moisture problems to occur. Move any items that could be blocking the vents.

    Vent Image

    Heavy sheet of ice on the back panel

    A heavy sheet of ice on the freezer compartment back panel is likely an indication of a defrosting problem. If ice buildup continues, you may need service from a local authorized service company.

    Frost buildup around the exterior door or on the ceiling

    Frost buildup around the door or on the ceiling suggests an air leak, likely due to a gasket problem. The door gasket should seal all the way around on the door. Make sure that nothing is keeping the gasket from making a good seal.

  • No or Low Ice Production

    Does the IM have power?

    • Verify that the ice maker is turned on. For information on how to turn your ice maker on/off, refer to your Use and Care Guide.
    • If the water supply is not hooked up, turn the ice maker off. Otherwise, the ice maker will try to run without water and a buzzing sound will result.

    Does your refrigerator have the proper water supply connection?

    • Check to see if refrigerator is connected to a cold water supply and that the water shutoff valve is fully turned on. A low volume of water flow will cause small or hollow ice cubes.

      • Be sure to use a " type valve that requires a drilled hole. It is not recommended to use a self piercing type or a 3/16" saddle valve, both of which clog easily.

        Water Supply Image

    Was you refrigerator recently installed?

    • If the refrigerator or ice maker was recently installed, you should allow 24 hours for the refrigerator to cool enough to begin making ice.
    • Once the refrigerator is completely cooled, the ice maker should produce a batch of cubes about every three hours and may take up to three days to fill the ice bin.
    • Wait 72 hours for full ice production to begin.
    • A cold water supply with water pressure of between 30 and 120 psi (207 and 827 kPa) is required to operate the water dispenser(on some models) and ice maker.

      • Low water pressure can result in low ice production and/or small/hallow ice cubes.

    Are you using a Reverse Osmosis(RO) system?

    • Connecting a refrigerator to a reverse-osmosis(RO) system could lower the water pressure to the refrigerator, which will result in small ice cubes or low ice production. The water pressure to the reverse-osmosis system needs to be a minimum of 40-60 psi (275-414kPA). If connected to a reverse osmosis system, the following items may improve the water pressure:

      • Allow the storage tank on the RO system to refill after heavy use.
      • If the refrigerator also has a water filter, remove it.
      • Check that the sediment filter in the RO system is not blocked and replace if necessary.

    Is there a kink in the water line?

    • A kink in the water source line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line to restore adequate water flow and pressure.

    Is your water filter clogged or improperly installed? (On some models)

    • A clogged or incorrectly installed water filter will reduce the water flow to the ice maker, which will cause small ice cubes or low ice production. If the refrigerator has a water dispenser, check for a problem with the filter by doing the following:

      1. Dispense water using the water dispenser and note the amount of water flow.
      2. Remove the filter. The filter is located either in the base grille below the refrigerator compartment door, or inside the refrigerator compartment.

      3. Dispense water using the water dispenser again. If the water flow noticeably increases, the filter is either clogged or incorrectly installed. A clogged filter will need to be replaced in order to correct the low flow.

    Is the IM jammed?

    • Make sure that ice is not jammed in the ejector arm of the ice maker. Remove jammed ice from the ejector arm using only a plastic utensil so the ice maker is not damaged.

      Jammed Ice Image
  • Refrigerator runs too much

    Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep your foods at the desired temperatures and to minimize energy usage. The high-efficiency compressor and fans may cause your refrigerator to run longer than your old one.

    There are several factors that can affect how long and how frequently your refrigerator runs.

    • The motor will run longer under warm conditions or if the refrigerator is receiving direct sunlight from a window or door. At normal room temperatures, your motor will run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, it can run even more.
    • A recently installed refrigerator will initially run more while cooling. Allow 24 hours for the refrigerator to completely cool.
    • When large quantities of food are added, the refrigerator has to run longer to cool the new items.
    • The motors will run longer when the doors are frequently opened. Conserve energy by getting all items out one at a time, keeping food organized, and closing the door as soon as possible.

    Additionally:

    • The best indicator of refrigerator temperatures is a beverage. If you are not satisfied with the beverage temperature, adjust the refrigerator control to a cooler setting.
    • The best indicator of freezer temperatures is ice cream. Ice cream should be frozen, but spoonable. If you are not satisfied with the ice cream temperature, adjust the freezer control to a cooler setting.
    • Temperatures of items stored in the door bins are typically not as cold as interior-shelf items.
  • Refrigerator door(s) not closing completely

    If your refrigerator door is not closing completely, check the following:

    Was your refrigerator recently installed?

    If your refrigerator was recently installed, make sure all packaging has been removed. Some packaging used to avoid damage during shipping could keep the door from closing.

    Were the doors removed during product installation and not properly replaced?

    Remove and replace the doors according to your refrigerator use and care guide. To find it, enter the model number of your refrigerator into the search below.

    Is the door blocked open by food packages?

    Move food packages/containers away from the door.

    Is a bin or shelf in the way?

    Push the bin or shelf back into the correct position.

    Is the ice bin out of position?

    Push in the ice bin all the way.

    Explosion Hazard
    Are the gaskets dirty or sticky?

    Clean gaskets and contact surfaces with mild soap and warm water. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth.

    Is the vertical-hinged seal folded inward?

    On French door models, there is a vertically-hinged seal on the left refrigerator door. If it is folded outward when the door is open, make sure to fold it inward with your hand before the door is closed.

    There are two refrigerator compartment doors. The doors can be opened and closed either separately or together. There is a vertically-hinged seal on the left refrigerator door.

    • When the left-side door is opened, the hinged seal automatically folds inward so that it is out of the way.
    • When both doors are closed, the hinged seal automatically froms a seal between the two doors.

      Hinged Seal
    Does the refrigerator wobble or seem unstable?

    Make sure your doors are securely closing by leveling the refrigerator as instructed in your installation instructions.

  • Moisture in the refrigerator compartment

    Some moisture in the refrigerator compartment and crispersis normal. Light sweat or humidity may build on interior walls, shelves, bottles, jars and other containers in the refrigerator compartment.

    Moisture in Main Refrigerator Compartment

    Excess moisture can be a result of the following:

    Opening the doors frequently

    Opening the doors frequently can cause sweat or dew to build in the refrigerator compartment. When the doors are opened, humid room air enters the refrigerator. The more often the doors are opened, the faster the humidity builds. Opening the doors less often will help, but may not completely eliminate internal moisture.

    Humid environment

    During months of high humidity (especially if a home is not air-conditioned), it is normal for some sweat or moisture to build inside the refrigerator when the room air is humid.

    Blocked air vents

    Make sure the air vents between the freezer and refrigerator compartments are not blocked. See images below. Objects blocking the vents will cause a decrease in proper air circulation, which can cause temperature and moisture problems. Move any items that could be blocking the vents.

    Poor gasket seal

    Moisture buildup around the door or on the ceiling suggests an air leak, likely due to a gasket problem. The door gasket should seal all the way around on the door. Make sure that nothing is keeping the gasket from making a good seal.

    Freezer on Bottom
    Bottom Moisture Image
    Side by Side
    Side by Side Moisture Image
    Top Mount
    Top Moisture Image

    Moisture in Crisper Bins

    Crispers are designed to hold moisture in order to keep vegetables fresh.
    • Washing foods before putting them in the crisper can cause excess moisture to form inside the crisper. To control moisture buildup, allow produce to dry on a towel after it is washed, before it is placed in the crisper. Excess moisture could cause produce to prematurely spoil.
    • On models with a moisture control on the front of the crisper, adjust the setting to low humidity or the fruit setting. Refer to your Use and Care Guide for additional instructions and information about this feature.
  • Doors are not properly aligned - Side by side refrigerator

    Side-by-side refrigerator doors are preset at the factory with the refrigerator door slightly higher (approximately the thickness of a quarter) than the freezer door. Once the doors are loaded with food, they should be even.

    If the door height needs to be adjusted after the doors have been loaded with food, follow these steps:

    Top of Doors

    The method for adjusting the door can differ for a cabinet-depth side-by-side refrigerator versus a standard-depth refrigerator. Before proceeding, identify which type of refrigerator you have.

    • A cabinet-depth or counter-depth refrigerator is approximately 27.5" deep, not including the handle. It is intended to align flush with the cabinets in a standard kitchen.
    • A standard-depth refrigerator is deeper than a cabinet depth. It is approximately 31 3/8" deep, and it will not be flush with a standard-size kitchen cabinet.
    To adjust the doors of a standard-depth side-by-side refrigerator:
    Excessive Weight Hazard
    1. Move the refrigerator into its final location and make sure that the refrigerator is level.

    2. Locate the leveling screws behind the base grille of the refrigerator. The leveling screws are part of the roller assemblies, which are located at the base of the refrigerator on either side. There is at least one roller assembly on either side near the bottom hinge.
    3. Use a hex-head socket wrench to adjust the front roller-leveling screw. Turn the roller-leveling screw clockwise to raise that side of the refrigerator or counterclockwise to lower that side.
    4. Turn in one-rotation increments. Open and close both the refrigerator and freezer door after each adjustment to check the door alignment.

      NOTE: Having someone push against the top of the refrigerator takes some weight off the leveling screws and rollers. This makes it easier to adjust the screws.

      Leveling
    Adjusting the doors of a cabinet-depth side-by-side refrigerator
    Excessive Weight Hazard

    Select models have a height-adjustment bolt as described in the instructions below. If your model does not have a height-adjustment bolt, follow the same instructions as a standard-depth side-by-side refrigerator.

    1. Move the refrigerator into its final location and make sure that the refrigerator is level.

    2. Locate the height-adjustment bolt on the bottom hinge of the refrigerator compartment door.

      NOTE: For easier access to the height-adjustment bolt, the refrigerator door should be closed.

    3. Use a 5/16" or adjustable wrench to turn the height-adjustment bolt. Turn the bolt clockwise to raise the refrigerator door or counterclockwise to lower the refrigerator door.
    4. Open and close the refrigerator door after each adjustment to make sure the doors are even at the top and bottom. If necessary, continue to turn the height-adjustment bolt.

      NOTE: Having someone push against the top of the refrigerator takes some weight off the leveling screws and rollers. This makes it easier to adjust the screws.

      Height Adjustment Bolt
  • How do I replace the light bulb - Bottom freezer/French door refrigerator

    NOTE: Not all appliance bulbs will fit your refrigerator. Make sure to replace the bulb with one of the same size, shape, and wattage.

    To change the refrigerator light bulb:

    1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
    2. Slide the light bulb cover toward the back of the compartment to release it from the light assembly.

      Refrigerator Light
    3. Replace burned-out bulb(s) with appliance light bulb(s) no greater than 40 watts.
    4. Replace the light bulb cover by inserting the tabs on the cover into the liner holes on each side of light assembly. Slide the cover toward the front until it locks into place.

      NOTE: Do not force the cover beyond the locking point; doing so may damage the light cover.

    5. Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.

    To change the freezer light bulb:

    1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.

      NOTE: You may need to remove the upper freezer shelf or basket to access the light assembly.

    2. The light bulb cover opens from the back. Firmly press forward on the notches in the back of the cover and pull down the cover.

      Freezer Light
    3. Remove the cover and replace the burned-out bulb with an appliance bulb no greater than 40 watts.
    4. Insert the front tabs of the cover into the liner and snap the back portion of the cover over the light assembly.
    5. Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.
  • Frost and ice buildup in freezer compartment - Top freezer

    Small ice droplets on the freezer walls and on the back panel are normal.

    If frost buildup is occurring in the freezer compartment, check for the following:
    • Frost buildup is likely to occur if the door is left open for a period of time. Make sure the door is closing completely and is not blocked by something between the door gasket and cabinet.
    • Frequent door openings can let in humid room air. Keep door openings to a minimum will help, but may not completely eliminate frost buildup or ice formation in the freezer. During months of high humidity (especially if home is not air-conditioned), it is normal to see some frost and sweating on the interior walls or on food packages.
    • Ensure proper air circulation by removing any packages blocking air flow vents.
    Heavy sheet of ice on the back panel

    A heavy sheet of ice on the freezer compartment back panel is likely an indication of a defrosting problem. If ice buildup continues, call for service.

    Frost buildup around the exterior door or on the ceiling

    Frost buildup around the door or on the ceiling suggests an air leak, likely due to a gasket problem. The door gasket should seal all the way around on the door. Make sure that nothing is keeping the gasket from making a good seal.

  • Cleaning the condenser coils

    There is typically no need for routine condenser cleaning in a normal home operating environment.

    However, if the environment is particularly greasy or dusty, or there is significant pet traffic in the home, the condenser should be cleaned every 2 to 3 months to ensure maximum efficiency.

    Steps to clean the condenser:

    1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
    2. Remove the base grille. Do this by opening both doors, placing your hands along the ends of the grille and pushing in on the top of the grille while pulling up on the bottom.
    3. Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush to clean the grille, the open areas behind the grille and front surface area to be cleaned.

      View of Condenser
    4. Replace the base grille. Do so by lining up the grille support tabs with the metal clips and pushing the grille firmly to snap into place.

      Base Grille
    5. Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.
  • Water leak - Side by side refrigerator

    NOTE: The sound of water flowing can easily be misinterpreted as a leaking sound. During the defrost cycle, you may hear water running into the drain pan located at the bottom of the refrigerator. This may create a water dripping noise.

    Water leaking from behind the refrigerator

    Excessive Weight Hazard

    If water appears to be leaking from the back of the refrigerator, check that the water line from the household water supply to the refrigerator is not damaged or cracked. Check all connections that are accessible, such as the connection at the supply valve and the connection point of the supply tubing onto the back of the refrigerator. Check that the tubing is firmly inserted into all fittings and that all fittings are tightened.

    Water leaking behind the grille

    If water appears to be leaking behind the base grille, remove the grille. Do so by placing both hands along the ends of the grille and pushing in on the top while pulling up on the bottom. Check that the water connection to the door is secure. This connection is located on the left, near the freezer door hinge. Push the tubes into the fitting firmly.

    NOTE: This connection was disconnected if the doors were removed during installation.

  • Adjusting temperature controls - Top freezer

    For your convenience, your refrigerator controls are preset at the factory. When you first install your refrigerator, make sure that the controls are still preset to the mid-settings as shown.

    Knob controls:

    For your convenience, your controls are preset at the factory to the "mid-settings" as shown.

    Knob Controls
    • Give your refrigerator time to cool down completely before adding food. It is best to wait 24 hours before you put food into the refrigerator.
    • Adjusting the controls to a higher (colder) than recommended setting will not cool the compartments any faster.
    Adjusting knob controls:

    Turn the Freezer or Refrigerator knob to the right or left depending on the needed temperature change.

    Condition/Reason: Setting Adjustment:
    Refrigerator too cold Refrigerator control 1 setting lower
    Refrigerator too warm Refrigerator control 1 setting higher
    Freezer too cold Freezer control 1 setting lower
    Freezer too warm/too little ice Freezer control 1 setting higher

    Digital controls:

    For your convenience, your controls are preset at the factory to the recommended set points of 0F (-18C) for the freezer and 37F (3C) for the refrigerator.

    Knob Controls
    Adjusting digital controls:

    NOTE: Wait at least 24 hours between adjustments. Recheck the temperature before other adjustments are made.

    Press the refrigerator or freezer up or down arrow until the desired temperature is reached.

    The set point range for the freezer is -5F to 5F (-21C to -15C).

    The set point range for the refrigerator is 33F to 41 F.

    Condition/Reason: Setting Adjustment:
    Refrigerator too cold Refrigerator control 1 higher
    Refrigerator too warm Refrigerator control 1 lower
    Freezer too cold Freezer control 1 higher
    Freezer too warm/too little ice Freezer control 1 lower
  • Normal sounds - Bottom freezer refrigerator (Interactive - Listen to Normal Sounds)

    Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep your food items at the desire temperatures and to minimize energy usage. The high efficiency compressor and fans may cause your refrigerator to run longer than your old one.

    When properly working, all refrigerators produce normal operating sounds. Because the sounds may be new to you, you may be concerned. Your home environment (room size, flooring, and cabinetry) may make these sounds more prominent.

    Buzzing is heard when the water valve opens to fill the ice maker or the ice maker is turned on with no water connection.
    Play audio of valve sounds with water to unit. (8 seconds, 748KB)
    Play audio of valve sounds with water not connected to unit. (8 seconds, 364KB)
    Pulsating is heard when fans/compressor adjust to optimize performance.
    Play audio of compressor running. (16 seconds, 250KB)
    Sizzling/gurgling is heard when water drips on the heater during the defrost cycle.
    Play audio of the sizzling sound made during the defrost cycle. (9 seconds, 143 KB)
    Popping/knocking is heard when the inside walls contract or expand, especially during initial cooling and periodically during operation.
    Play audio of popping/knocking. (20 seconds, 805KB)
    Water running/dripping may be heard when water melts during the defrost cycle and runs into the drain pan.
    Play audio of water dripping during defrost cycle. (8 seconds, 130KB)
    Creaking/cracking/thumping occurs as ice is being ejected from the ice maker mold.
    Play audio of ice dumping into ice bin. (9 seconds, 154KB)

    Clicking is the freezer control when it starts or stops the compressor. The defrost timer sounds like an electric clock as it snaps in and out of the defrost cycle. The electric damper control can also make a clicking or humming sound as it opens and closes.

    Beeping sounds are made when doors are open, or have not been properly closed. Both the Door Alarm and Temp Alarm make beeping sounds.

    Hissing/rattling/vibrating is heard during the flow of refrigerant and movement of water lines. Rattling and vibrating sounds could come from items placed on top of the refrigerator.

  • How often does my freezer defrost, and how long does the defrost cycle last

    Most new models will now automatically defrost because they feature adaptive defrost to control the defrost time and frequency.

    If your model does not have adaptive defrost, the freezer defrosts after the compressor runs 8-12 hours. The defrost cycle lasts approximately 20-40 minutes and may slightly raise the freezer air temperature.

  • How do I use my temperature controls - French door refrigerator/bottom freezer

    Controls

    Initial control settings

    For your convenience, your temperature controls are preset at the factory. When you first install your refrigerator, make sure the controls are still set to the initial settings.

    After plugging in the refrigerator, set the controls.
    • Press the arrow pads to adjust the controls to the desired setting.

    • The temperature control range for both compartments is 1 - 7 (coldest).

    • The Freezer control is initially set to 4.

    • The Refrigerator control is initially set to 4.

    • Wait 24 hours for your refrigerator to completely cool before adding food. If you add food before the refrigerator has completely cooled, your food may spoil.

    NOTE: Adjusting the controls to a higher (colder) than recommended setting will not cool the compartments any faster.

    If the temperature is too warm or too cold in the refrigerator or freezer, first check the air vents to make sure they are not blocked before adjusting the controls.

    Air vents image
    Adjusting the controls
    • If you decide that one or both compartments should be colder or warmer, adjust the control(s) as indicated in the temperature control guide below.

    • Except when starting the refrigerator, do not change either control more than one number at a time.

    • Allow temperature to stabilize for 24 hours before making a new temperature adjustment.

    • Changing either control will have some effect on the temperature of the other compartment.

    Temperature control guide
    Temperature control guide
  • Water supply hookup - Bottom freezer/French door refrigerators

    Water supply requirements

    Gather the required tools and parts before starting installation. Read and follow the instructions provided with any tools listed here.

    Tools needed:
    • Flat-blade screwdriver
    • 7/16" and " open-end wrenches or two adjustable wrenches
    • " nut driver and drill bit
    • Cordless drill
    IMPORTANT:
    • All installations must meet local plumbing code requirements.
    • Do not use a piercing-type or 3/16" (4.76 mm) saddle valve which reduces water flow and clogs more easily.
    • Use copper tubing and check for leaks. Install copper tubing only in areas where the household temperatures will remain above freezing.

    Water pressure

    A cold water supply with water pressure of between 35 and 120 psi (241 and 827 kPa) is required to operate the water dispenser and ice maker. If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed, qualified plumber.

    Reverse-osmosis water supply

    IMPORTANT: The pressure of the water supply coming out of a reverse-osmosis system going to the water inlet valve of the refrigerator needs to be between 35 and 120 psi (241 and 827 kPa).

    If a reverse-osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply, the water pressure to the reverse-osmosis system needs to be a minimum of 40 to 60 psi (276 to 414 kPa).

    If the water pressure to the reverse-osmosis system is less than 40 to 60 psi (276 to 414 kPa):
    • Check to see whether the sediment filter in the reverse osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if necessary.
    • Allow the storage tank on the reverse-osmosis system to refill after heavy use.
    • If your refrigerator has a water filter, it may further reduce the water pressure when used in conjunction with a reverse-osmosis system. Remove the water filter. See your Use and Care Guide for water filter removal instructions.

    If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed, qualified plumber.

    To connect a refrigerator to a water supply:
    Eclectrical Shock Hazard

    Read all directions before you begin.

    IMPORTANT: If you turn on the refrigerator before the water line is connected, turn off the ice maker.

    To connect to water line:

    1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
    2. Turn off main water supply. Turn on the nearest faucet long enough to clear line of water.
    3. Find a " to 1" (12.7 mm to 3.18 mm) vertical cold water pipe near the refrigerator.
    IMPORTANT:
    • Make sure it is a cold water pipe.
    • Horizontal pipe will work, but only with the following procedure:

      Drill on the top side of the pipe, not the bottom. This will help keep water away from the drill. This also keeps normal sediment from collecting in the valve.

    • To determine the length of copper tubing you will need, measure from the connection on the lower left rear of the refrigerator to the water pipe. Add aprox. 7' (2.1 m) to allow for moving refrigerator for cleaning. Use " (6.35 mm) O.D. (outside diameter) copper tubing. Make sure both ends of copper tubing are cut square.
    • Using a cordless drill, drill a " hole in the cold water pipe you have selected.

      Water Connections
    • Fasten the shutoff valve to the cold water pipe with a pipe clamp. Make sure the outlet end is solidly in the " drilled hole in the water pipe and that the rubber washer is under the pipe clamp. Tighten the packing nut. Slowly and evenly tighten the pipe clamp screws so the rubber washer makes a watertight seal. Do not overtighten or you may crush the copper tubing.
    • Slip the compression sleeve and compression nut on the copper tubing as shown. Insert the end of the tubing squarely into the outlet end as far as it will go. Screw the compression nut onto the outlet end with an adjustable wrench. Do not overtighten.
    • Place the free end of the tubing into a container or sink. Turn on the main water supply and flush the tubing until the water is clear. Turn off the shutoff valve on the water pipe.
    Connect the water supply to the refrigerator
    Electrical Shock Hazard

    Water filter models

    Materials needed:
    • " outer diameter flexible copper tubing
    • Shutoff valve (requires a " hole to be drilled into water supply line before valve attachment)
    • Adjustable wrenches (2)
    • " hex nut driver
    NOTES:
    • Use copper tubing only for installation. Plastic is less durable and can cause damage.
    • Add 8' to tubing length needed to reach water supply for creation of service loop.
    1. Create service loop with copper tubing (minimum 2' diameter). Avoid kinks in the copper tubing when bending the service loop. Do not use plastic tubing.

      Step 1
    2. Remove plastic cap from water valve inlet port.

      Step 2
    3. Place brass compression nut (A) and sleeve (B) on copper tube end as illustrated.

      Step 3
    4. Place end of copper tubing into the water valve inlet port. Slightly shape tubing. Do not kink; shape so that tubing feeds straight into the inlet port. 2' diameter minimum.

      Step 4
    5. Slide the brass compression nut over the sleeve and screw nut into the inlet port. Place an adjustable wrench on nut (1) attached to the plastic water line, and maintain position. Using a second adjustable wrench, turn the lower nut (2) counterclockwise and fully tighten while holding the upper nut in place.

      IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten.

      Step 5
    6. Pull on the tubing to confirm connection is secure. Connect tubing to frame with water tubing clamp (C) and turn on the water supply. Check for leaks and correct if necessary. Continue to observe the water supply connection for 2-3 hours prior to moving the refrigerator to its permanent location.

      Step 6
    7. After the refrigerator is moved to its permanent locations, monitor the water connection for 24 hours. Correct leaks if necessary.

      IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten.

    After connecting the refrigerator to a water source or replacing the water filter, flush the water system. Use a sturdy container to depress and hold the water dispenser lever for 5 seconds, and then release it for 5 seconds. Repeat until water begins to flow. Once water begins to flow, continue depressing and releasing the dispenser lever (5 seconds on, 5 seconds off) until a total of 4 gal. (16 L) has been dispensed. This will flush air from the filter and water dispensing system, and prepare the water filter for use. Additional flushing may be required in some households. As air is cleared from the system, water may spurt out of the dispenser.

    Check for adequate water pressure. You should be able to dispense about 3 to 6 ounces in 5 seconds.

    If the refrigerator does not have a dispenser, check the water pressure using the water supply line, if possible. The " water supply line should dispense at least 9 ounces of water in 5 seconds.

    If the water pressure is low, check for the following:
    • Add 8' to tubing length needed to reach water supply for creation of service loop.
    • Clogged or partially closed saddle valve.
    • Reverse-osmosis water filter.
    • Water filter in the refrigerator may need to be replaced, if used previously.

      Valves

    Non water-filter models

    To connect to the refrigerator:
    1. Remove the plastic cap from the water valve inlet port. Attach the copper tube to the valve inlet using a compression nut and sleeve as shown. Tighten the compression nut. Do not overtighten. Pull on the copper tubing to confirm that it is secure.
    2. Create a service loop, and use special care to avoid kinks. Secure copper tubing to the refrigerator cabinet with a "P" clamp.

      Water Connections
    3. Turn on the water supply to the refrigerator, and check for leaks. Correct any leaks.

    IMPORTANT: Do not overtighten.

    After connecting the refrigerator to a water source or replacing the water filter, flush the water system. Use a sturdy container to depress and hold the water dispenser lever for 5 seconds, and then release it for 5 seconds. Repeat until water begins to flow. Once water begins to flow, continue depressing and releasing the dispenser lever (5 seconds on, 5 seconds off) until a total of 4 gal. (16 L) has been dispensed. This will flush air from the filter and water dispensing system, and prepare the water filter for use. Additional flushing may be required in some households. As air is cleared from the system, water may spurt out of the dispenser.

    Check for adequate water pressure. You should be able to dispense about 3 to 6 ounces in 5 seconds.

    If the refrigerator does not have a dispenser, check the water pressure using the water supply line, if possible. The " water supply line should dispense at least 9 ounces of water in 5 seconds.

    If the water pressure is low, check for the following:
    • Kinked tubes.
    • Clogged or partially closed saddle valve.
    • Reverse-osmosis water filter.

      Valves
  • Ice cubes are sticking together in my ice bin

    Ice cubes stick together for the following reasons.

    Infrequent Use
    • It is normal for ice cubes to stick together over time.
    • Infrequent use in dispensing ice, more than a week or so between dispensing is a common cause of ice cubes sticking together. Look for cubes which otherwise appear fairly normal (although over long periods of time some frost may build).
    • Sublimation and melting occur at the molecular level even at temperatures which remain well below freezing. The water molecules condense and refreeze back on the cubes and this will cause cubes to freeze together at points of contact.
    To summarize:
    1. Neither warm temperatures nor airflow are necessary for ice cubes to stick together. Over time, this will occur even at extremely cold temperatures.
    2. The reason is that molecules of water (ice) on adjacent cubes of ice join into the same ice crystal at the point of contact. The size and strength of the bonds grow with time. It begins happening immediately, but is at first too weak to notice.
    3. Use of the dispenser drives an auger motor which breaks up the bonds between ice cubes, at least until they have grown too strong.
    Moisture
    • Unusual moisture levels in the freezer will accelerate the formation of bonds between ice cubes. In this case the water forming the bonds does not come from the ice cubes themselves but from the air. Look for cubes which appear to have frost built up upon them. The moisture deposits onto the cubes. The moist air may leak in through damaged or incomplete seals on the dispenser ice door or gaps in the freezer door gasket.
    • Unwrapped fresh food items may release moisture which can get into the freezer through the air return.
    • Moisture causes become more likely in tropical environments.
    Occasional Warm Temperatures
    • If the temperature goes above freezing, there will be visible melting which will then refreeze when temperatures return to normal. Look for cubes which are misshapen because they appear to have melted. The most likely causes are power failures, the freezer having been left open for an extended period.
    • The ice dispenser door may fail to close due to an ice cube getting lodged in the ice chute.
  • Adjusting vegetable/meat drawer temperature control - Side by side refrigerator

    The convertible vegetable/meat drawer can be adjusted to chill meats or vegetables. The air inside the pan is cooled to prevent "spot" freezing and can be set to keep meats at the National Livestock and Meat Board recommended storage temperatures of 28 to 32 F (-2 to 0C).

    Adjusting the control

    Change the control setting by moving the control to the right for colder or left for less cold.

    If food starts to freeze, move the control to the left (less cold). Remember to wait 24 hours between adjustments.

    To store meat:

    Set the control to one of the three Meat settings to store meat at its optimal storage temperature.

    To store vegetables:

    Set the control to Produce or Veg to store vegetables at their optimal storage temperatures.

    Temperature Control Slider
  • Ice buildup in freezer compartment - Side by side refrigerator

    Small ice droplets on the freezer walls and back panel are normal.

    If frost is building up in the freezer compartment, check for the following:
    • Frost is likely to build if the door is left open for a period of time. Make sure the doors are closing completely and are not blocked by something between the door gasket and cabinet.
    • Is there frost buildup around the exterior doors or on the ceiling? See explanation below.
    • Is there ice stuck in the delivery chute (if applicable)? See explanation below.
    Frost buildup around the exterior doors or on the ceiling

    Frost buildup in these areas suggests an air leak, likely due to a gasket problem. The door gasket should seal all the way around on both doors. Make sure that nothing is between the gasket and cabinet when the door is closed.

    Ice stuck in the delivery chute

    Make sure the ice chute door closes completely. Check for and clear any ice stuck in the delivery chute or blocking the ice chute door. Use only a plastic utensil to remove ice from the ice chute. Do not use anything sharp to remove ice as this may damage the ice chute.

    Also, check that the ice guide on the dispenser lever is snapped into place on both sides of the lever.

    Ice Chute Door

Laundry

  • Not draining, not spinning out water, wet loads - Top-load washer

    Is the drain hose kinked, or is the drain clogged?

    Make sure that the drain hose is not kinked or clogged. Straighten the hose for adequate water flow. Remove any blockage from the drain hose, drainpipe or utility sink. Use the U-shaped drain hose form on the drain hose, and secure the drain hose. See the Installation Instructions for further details.

    hose image

    Is the end of the drain hose more than 96" (244 cm) above the floor?

    The drainpipe (standpipe) height requirements are 96" (244 cm) maximum and 39" (99 cm) minimum. Your washer will not be able to adequately pump the water out of the washer if the drainpipe (standpipe) exceeds 96" (244 cm). In this case, the water may flow back into the washer. See the Installation Instructions for details; enter your product model number in the search tool below to find them online.

    Was a delicate cycle or Low Spin speed selected?

    Gentle cycles, such as delicate and handwash, use slow spins to keep fabrics from stretching and wrinkling. Slow spinning also leaves more water in the load. To remove more water, select a cycle that uses high spin speeds. A cycle or fabric selection such as heavy duty has higher spin speeds and will leave less water in loads.

    Were you washing a large load?

    The wash load must be balanced and not tightly packed. Large or unbalanced loads can cause reduced spin speed and wet clothes at the end of the cycle.

    Do you see suds with the problem?

    High amounts of detergent can create too many suds. In some cases, the suds can stop the washer from pumping out water and spinning. Always measure detergent and follow the manufacturer's directions for the amount to use. If you have very soft water, use less detergent.

    Is the lid open?

    If the lid is lifted during a cycle, the machine will stop. To continue the cycle, close the lid and make sure that the timer knob is pulled out. The lid must be closed during operation for the washer to fill with water, and then to wash, drain, rinse and spin.

  • Washer will not fill or start - Top-load washer

    electrical shock

    Is the power cord plugged into a grounded 3 prong outlet?

    Plug power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet.

    Are you using an extension cord?

    Do not use an extension cord.

    Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?

    Check to see if a household circuit breaker or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt (GFCI) outlet has tripped. If so, reset the circuit breaker or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt. If the washer is on a fuse box, check to see if a fuse has blown and replace it, if necessary. If the problem continues, call an electrician.

    Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on?

    Turn on the water. Check the household faucets to see if the hot and/or cold water is shut off. If so, completely open them for proper fill.

    NOTE: Both hot and cold water must be connected to the washer and turned on. The washer will not properly operate with only one incoming source of water.

    Is the water inlet hose kinked?

    Straighten the hoses.

    Are the water inlet valve screens on the washer clogged?

    Turn off the water and remove the inlet hoses from the washer. Remove any accumulated film or particles from the water inlet valve screens. Reinstall the hoses, turn on water, and check for leaks.

    Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle?

    Some cycles use short soaks (no wash action) to improve fabric care. The wash action turns on and off throughout the wash. The washer may pause for up to 3 minutes during certain cycles. Allow the cycle to continue.

    Is the timer knob in the off position?

    Make sure the timer knob pointer is lined up with a cycle selection and the knob is pulled out. The washer may not start if the pointer is too close to an Off position. Push in the timer knob. Slightly move the timer knob clockwise, and then pull out the knob. The washer will not start if the timer is not in the correct position.

    Is the timer knob pushed in?

    Pull out the knob to start the washer. If the lid was opened after the cycle started, the lid may have pushed in the knob. Make sure the knob is pulled out.

    Is the lid open?

    Your previous washer may have filled and washed with the lid open. Newer washers will not fill or wash with the lid open. The lid must be closed for the washer to fill with water, wash, drain, rinse and spin the load. Close the washer lid before starting the washer

    .
  • Loads are damp; dryer does not dry

    There are many reasons why your loads may not be drying to your satisfaction. Check the following links for possible causes and solutions.

    For dryers with digital displays:

    Changing the Preset Dryness Level Settings (available on some models only)

    If all of your loads on all auto cycles are consistently not as dry as you would like, you may change the preset Dryness level settings to increase the dryness. This change will affect all of your auto cycles.

    NOTE: Changing this setting will increase all of your auto cycle times.

    Your Dryness level settings can be adjusted to adapt to different installations, environmental conditions or personal preferences. There are 3 drying settings:
    1. (factory preset dryness level)
    2. (slightly dryer clothes, approximately 15% more drying time)
    3. (much dryer clothes, approximately 30% more drying time)
      • The Dryness level settings cannot be changed while the dryer is running.
      • Press and hold the Dryness button for 5 seconds. The dryer will beep, and "CF" will be displayed for 1 second, followed by the current drying setting.
      • To select a new drying setting, press the Dryness button again until the desired drying setting is shown.

        NOTE: While cycling through the settings, the current setting will not flash, but the other settings will flash.

      • Press Start to save the drying setting.
      • Press Pause/Cancel at any time to cancel changes and exit from this mode.
      • The drying setting you selected will become your new preset drying setting for all Sensor Dry cycles.
  • Dryer does not heat - Electric dryer

    Did you select an air option?

    The Air Dry cycle or Air Only temperature does not add heat to the dryer. Expect loads dried with the Air Dry cycle or Air Only temperature to take longer to dry. Air Dry cycle or Air Only temperature can be found on the control knob or button with the other temperature selections.

    Has a household fuse blown or has a circuit breaker tripped?

    The drum may be turning, but you may not have heat. Electric dryers use 2 household fuses or circuit breakers. Replace the fuses or reset the circuit breakers. If the problem continues, call an electrician.

    Did you recently install a power supply cord on the dryer?

    The power supply cord may be incorrectly installed. Review the Installation Instructions to make sure that the power supply cord is properly installed.

  • My dryer will not start

    Has a household fuse blown or has a circuit breaker tripped?

    There may be 2 household fuses or circuit breakers for the dryer. Make sure both fuses are intact and tight, or that both circuit breakers have not tripped. Replace the fuse(s) or reset the circuit breaker(s). If the problem continues, call an electrician.

    Is the correct power supply available? (Electric dryers only)

    Electric dryers require 240-volt power supply. Check with a qualified electrician.

    Is the dryer door firmly closed?

    Your dryer door may not be fully closed. It may look shut, but may not be latched. Push on the door to engage the latch or latches. Some models have an upper and lower latch. Both latches must be secure for the dryer to run.

    Was the Start, Push to Start or Hold to Start button firmly pressed?

    Large loads may require the Start, Push to Start, or Hold to Start button to be pressed and held for two to five seconds.

    Is the Cycle Control knob set on a Sensor Dry or Timed Dry cycle? (on some models)

    The Cycle Control knob must be set in a Air Dry cycle or Air Only temperature or Timed Dry cycle. The dryer will not start if set on the Wrinkle Prevent option.

    Is Controls Locked status light on? (on some models)

    Press and hold the Cycle Signal button for three seconds. This will turn off the Controls Locked feature.

    Did you recently install a power supply cord on the dryer? (Electric dryers only)

    The power supply cord may be incorrectly installed. If the power cord is incorrectly installed, the dryer may not start or heat. Review the Installation Instructions to check that the power supply cord is properly installed.

    NOTE: If you do not have your Installation Instructions, find them online by entering your product model number in the search tool below.

  • Damp loads or long drying times - Dryer

    If the dryer is not heating, see:

    If the dryer is heating, check the following:

    • Clean the Lint Screen

    • Check the Outside Exhaust Hood

    • Check for Crushed Vent Material

    • Good Airflow for Best Performance

    • How Auto Dry and Timed Dry Work

    Is the lint screen clogged with lint?

    Dryers need good air movement to correctly operate. A full lint screen reduces air movement. Clean the lint screen before drying every load.

    Fire Hazard
    Is the exhaust vent or outside exhaust hood clogged with lint and restricting air movement?

    A clogged exhaust vent system slows moist air from leaving the dryer and extends drying time. Run the dryer for 5-10 minutes. Hold your hand under the outside exhaust hood to check air movement. If the air movement is less than a hair dryer on high speed, clean the lint from the entire length of the system and the exhaust hood.

    • Replace any plastic or metal foil vent with rigid or flexible heavy metal vent.
    • Lint should be removed from the entire length of the system every 2 years or more often, depending on dryer use.
    • Make sure that the outside exhaust hood is free of debris and that the louvers or flapper door easily open and close. Box or louvered hoods are recommended.
    Is the exhaust vent kinked, smashed or crushed?

    Kinked or crushed exhaust vent material slows moist air from leaving the dryer and extends drying time. Replace any plastic or metal foil vent with rigid or flexible heavy metal vent.

    Is the dryer in a new location or is this a new installation? Is there a new exhaust vent system?

    The exhaust vent system may be too long or have too many turns. Heavy rigid metal vent material and boxed or louvered exhaust hoods allow for the longest exhaust vent systems. Use the fewest number of elbows for the best airflow. Your installation should not have more than 4 elbows. Each additional elbow in the system reduces the amount of vent material length the system can have for good air movement. See the Installation Instructions for more details on maximum exhaust vent system lengths.

    • Replace any plastic or metal foil vent with a rigid or flexible heavy metal vent.
    • Use only 4" diameter heavy metal exhaust vent material. Larger or smaller diameter material will reduce good air movement and cause longer drying times.
    Are fabric softener sheets blocking air flow?

    A dryer softener sheet may be blocking the air intake or exhaust grille inside the dryer drum. This slows moist air from moving out of the dryer, which then lengthens the cycle time. Use only one fabric softener sheet per load, and use it only once. Remove any fabric softener sheets from the inside of the dryer drum.

    Explosion Hazard
    Is the dryer located in a garage, on a porch or in a room colder than 45F (7C)?

    The air temperature surrounding a dryer in a garage or on a porch may be too cold for the dryer to dry loads well. Proper operation of the cycles requires the dryer to be in an area where the air temperature is above 45F (7C).

    Is the dryer located in a closet?

    Closet doors must have ventilation openings at the top and bottom of the door. The front of the dryer requires a minimum of 1" (2.5 cm) of airflow space, and, for most installations, the rear of the dryer requires 5" (14 cm). See the Installation Instructions for details.

    Were you drying a large load?

    Large loads take longer to dry. A load that is too large for the dryer will not tumble and limits air movement in the dryer. This slows the process of removing moist air out of the dryer, which will result in longer drying cycles.

Dishwashers

  • When and How to use rinse aid in my dishwasher

    The use of a rinse aid is very important. Using rinse aid will optimize your drying and wash performance. Your dishwasher is specifically designed to use a liquid rinse aid for improved drying performance and controlling buildup of hard water deposits.
    Energy efficient dishwashers use less water and energy, so they depend on the water "sheeting" action of rinse aid for total optimal performance.

    Filling the dispener

    The rinse aid dispenser holds 5-6 oz (150 mL - 175mL) of rinse aid. Under normal conditions this will last for about 1 to 3 months.
    To use a rinse aid:

    • Make sure the dishwasher door is fully open.
    • Turn the dispenser knob to "Open" and lift it out.
    • Pour rinse aid into the opening until the indicator points to "Full." Take care not to overfill. When the rinse aid indicator drops to the "Add" level, add more rinse aid.
    • Clean up any spilled rinse aid with a damp cloth.
    • Place the knob back into the opening and turn to the "Lock" position.

    Rinse aid setting

    • The amount of rinse aid released into the final rinse can be adjusted.
    • The factory setting is at 2; for most water conditions, set the adjuster to 1 or 2.
    • If there are rings or calcium (hard water) spots on dishes, try a higher setting.

    To adjust the setting

    • Remove the dispenser knob.
    • Turn the arrow adjuster inside the dispenser to the desired setting by either using your fingers or inserting a flat-blade screwdriver into the center of the arrow and turning.
    • Replace the dispenser knob.
  • Dishwasher will not start

    Is the door open or unlatched?

    Make sure the door is completely closed and latched. On models with a dual-digit display, the control displays "- -" during a cycle if it believes the door is not latched. Check for obstructions (spoons, etc), interfering with the door operation. A lower dish rack that is installed backward will also cause incomplete door closure.

    Is there power to the dishwasher?

    shock hazard

    Check your household electrical box to see if a fuse has blown or if the circuit breaker has tripped. If the unit has a plug-in power cord, make sure it is plugged in.

    Does your dishwasher have a rotary timer knob? (Some Models)

    The cycle selection must match the position of the timer knob. Turn the timer knob to the beginning of the preferred cycle. The timer knob should click when you reach the start of the cycle.

    Is the control lock option activated?

    Press and hold the Heated Dry option (button with lock icon) for three to five seconds and the light should turn off. Instructions are also placed on the label on top of the inner door to unlock the controls

    .

    Is the delay start option activated?

    To cancel the delay and cycle, press Cancel/Drain.

    Has the motor stopped for less than 10 minutes?

    The motor may have stopped due to an overload. If this is the case, the motor will automatically reset itself within 5-10 minutes.

    Is the Start/Resume indicator flashing?

    Opening the door or interrupting the power can stop the cycle. Close the door and press Start/Resume. If the Start/Resume indicator flashes three times when you press Start/Resume, the dishwasher is waiting for you to open the door after the last cycle. Open and close the door, and then press Start/Resume.

    On models where the controls are on top of the door be sure to close the door within 3 seconds of pressing the Start/Resume to start or resume the dishwasher cycle.

    Is the water shutoff valve (if installed) turned on?

    Make sure that the water shutoff valve is turned on.

    If these recommendations do not resolve the situation, please call a local authorized servicer.

  • Moisture inside the dishwasher after the end of cycle

    What this could be:

    • Condensation / Humidity on the interior walls of your dishwasher after your cycle is complete. This is normal.

      • The dishwasher tub walls cool faster than the dishes thus creating the condensation on the dishwasher walls.
      • After the cycle has completed, small amounts of condensation / humidity are normal, even after a period of time.
    • Pooling water at the bottom of my dishwasher. This is normal

      • The condensation / humidity on the interior walls will sheet or run down the interior wall and pool at the bottom of the tub.

    What you can do:

    • Use rinse aid in every load. Rinse aid helps keeps water from forming droplets. Allowing the water to "sheet" away, thus improving drying.

      • Heated dry WITHOUT a rinse aid

        Without Image
      • Heated dry WITH a rinse aid

        With Image
    • Use the Heat Dry option. This option uses the heating element at the end of the wash cycle, thus creating optimal drying performance.
    • Flash Dry - At the end of the cycle open your dishwashers door (Minimum of half way) for 5 - 10 seconds. This will help the humidity escape from the interior of the dishwasher, thus eliminating condensation, etc.
    • Proper Loading. Place cups and glasses in the rows between tines. Placing them over the tines can lead to water spots. The bottom rack is best suited for plates, pans, casserole dishes and utensils. Load plates, soup bowls, etc, between the tines. Ensure there is space between the dishes so the water spray will reach all surfaces.
    • Dishwashers with plastic tubs.A new or newer dishwasher with a plastic tub may need to "season" over time. Seasoning your plastic dishwasher tub will increase your drying performance. To help season your dishwashers tub, you will simply need to use the dishwasher. Each cycle you run will improve the seasoning process. Do not pre rinse your dishes, the soils on the dishes will help enhance the seasoning process.

    Note: Plastic and items with nonstick surfaces are difficult to dry because they have a porous surface which tends to collect water droplets.

  • My dishwasher is not draining

    Is the door open or unlatched?

    Make sure the door is completely closed and latched.

    Was the selected cycle interrupted before finishing?

    The Clean light will come on when the cycle is finished. Wait until the Clean light comes on to try and drain the standing water. Make sure the door is closed then press the Start/Cancel twice to manually drain. Dishwasher will turn off after 2 minutes of manual drain.

    If your serial number starts with an F make sure the door is closed then press the Cancel/Drain to try and drain the standing water.

    Is dishwasher drain hose connected to a garbage disposal?

    For many dishwashers, the drain hose is connected to the disposal and the knockout plug must be removed from the disposer inlet.

    Is the drain system blocked?

    Run the disposer to clear the drain system.

    Do you have an air gap at your sink?

    Check to see if the air gap is blocked by foreign material. To clean the drain air gap, follow the cleaning instructions provided by the manufacturer. With most types, you lift off the chrome cover, unscrew the plastic cap, and then check for any soil buildup. Clean if necessary.

    Is there a loop in the drain hose less than 20" (50.8 cm) above the floor?

    Make sure the drain hose is looped so that it touches the underside of the counter before connecting to the sink drain or disposer.

    Is there a kink in the drain hose?

    Replace a kinked drain hose.

    Did you reuse an existing drain hose?

    Make sure to use the new drain hose that came with the dishwasher.

    Is the sink drain clogged?

    If the sink is not draining well, a plumber may need to be contacted. Most dishwashers connect to the sink drain. If the sink drain is clogged, the dishwasher can't pump out water.

    Is the drain hose too long?

    If the supplied drain hose was replaced with a longer one it must be shorter than 12' (3.7m).

  • My dishwasher cycle takes too long

    Important information about dishwasher cycles:

    • Normal cycle time is anywhere from 1.5 to 3 hours long.
    • A delay automatically occurs in some wash and rinse cycles until the water reaches the proper temperature.
    • Newer models (Serial Number greater than FS50) are equipped with an optical sensor wash that detects water temperature, soil and detergent amount. Wash cycles are then adjusted based on what is sensed.

      • The very first wash cycle after installation in the home will be adjusted to include an additional 2 rinses. This cycle must not be interrupted for proper sensor adjustment. If this adjustment cycle is canceled or stopped before the Clean light comes on at the end of the cycle, the next wash cycle will repeat this sensor adjustment.
      • The dishwasher "senses" wash water quality during a series of pauses in the wash cycle. The sensor monitors water temperature and the amount of soil and detergent appearing in the wash cycle for the best wash. Lightly soiled dishes use less water and energy. Heavily soiled dishes will get more water and increased temperature and wash time. This dishwasher will automatically adjust the sensor approximately once a year to your water quality.
    • In order to minimize cycle time:

      • Before starting a load, run the hot water faucet nearest the sink until the water is hot; then turn off the faucet and start the dishwasher
    • As part of normal operation, the dishwasher pauses two to three times during the cycle for thermal holds and advances once the temperature is met.
    Things to check for long cycle times:
    • Was a water heat cycle or sanitary cycle selected?

      • When certain cycles and/or options are selected, a longer cycle is normal. Additional time is needed to heat the water to the proper temperature for cleaning and/or sanitizing your dishes.
    • Is the water supplied to the dishwasher not hot enough?

      • If the water heater is turned down low or below 120oF, this will cause a longer cycle time.
      • Make sure that the dishwasher is hooked up to the hot water line.
    • Is the dry cycle working?

      • If the dry cycle is not working schedule service.

Cooktops

  • The surface burners on my gas range won't operate

    Is this the first time the surface burners have been used?

    Turn on any one of the surface burner knobs to release air from the gas lines.

    Is the control knob set correctly?

    Push in knob before turning to a setting.

    Are the burner ports clogged?

    See cleaning the sealed gas surface burners section below.

    Sealed surface burners

    IMPORTANT: Do not obstruct the flow of combustion and ventilation air around the burner grate edges.

    Sealed Surface Burners
    Burner cap:

    Always keep the burner cap in place when using a surface burner. A clean burner cap will help avoid poor ignition and uneven flames. Always clean the burner cap after a spillover and routinely remove and clean the caps according to the General cleaning section below.

    Gas tube opening:

    Gas must flow freely throughout the gas tube opening for the burner to properly light. Keep this area free of soil and do not allow spills, food, cleaning agents or any other material to enter the gas tube opening. Protect it from spillovers by always using a burner cap.

    Gas Tube Opening
    Burner ports:

    Occasionally check burner flames for proper size and shape as shown above. A good flame is blue in color, not yellow. Keep this area free of soil and do not allow spills, food, cleaning agents or any other material to enter the burner ports.

    Cleaning the sealed gas surface burner:

    IMPORTANT: Before cleaning, make sure all controls are off and the oven and cooktop are cool. Do not use oven cleaners, bleach or rust removers.

    1. Remove the burner cap from the burner base and clean according to the General Cleaning section below.
    2. Clean the gas tube opening with a damp cloth.
    3. Clean clogged burner ports with a straight pin as shown. Do not enlarge or distort the port. Do not use a wooden toothpick. If the burner needs to be adjusted, contact a trained repair specialist.

      Cleaning Burner Image
    4. Replace the burner cap, making sure the alignment pins are properly aligned with the burner cap.

      Burner Cap Alignment
    5. Turn on the burner. If the burner does not light, check cap alignment. If the burner still does not light, do not service the sealed burner yourself. Contact a trained repair specialist.
    General cleaning:

    IMPORTANT: Before cleaning, make sure all controls are off and the oven and cooktop are cool. Always follow label instructions on cleaning products.

    Soap, water and a soft cloth or sponge are suggested first unless otherwise noted.

General Questions

  • Product Recall Information

    Please click the link below to see product recall information.

    Product Recall Information
  • Use and Care Manuals, Parts List or Installtion Instruction for Amana products

    Please click the link below to see manuals, parts lists, and installation instructions.

    Use and Care Manuals, Parts List or Installtion Instruction for Amana products
  • Proposition 65 Warnings

    The image of the Warnings in the Use and Care Manual is below.

    State of California Proposition 65 Warnings

    The warning in your Use and Care Guide is printed in order for Whirlpool Corporation to comply with California State law and is based on the list of chemicals identified by the Governor of the State of California as provided in Proposition 65 regulations.

    California Proposition 65 is known as The Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986. To comply with this California Act, even chemicals used within the limits of national regulations and found not hazardous in the quantities associated with the product may require a warning just because the chemical is present. Information about Proposition 65 and this warning is available on the website of the Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment (OEHHA) maintained by the State of California. http://www.oehha.org/prop65.html

    Whirlpool evaluates all chemicals associated with the products that Whirlpool manufactures and complies with all regulations associated with the chemicals. All potential chemical exposures are below accepted and regulated concentrations. Whirlpool has provided the warning because a chemical covered by the California Proposition 65 may be present and not all listed chemicals provide exposure limit requirements. Therefore, Whirlpool has elected to provide the warning when a listed chemical is present.

  • Locating Your Model Number


    Locate your Appliance Model Number

    Please find the type of appliance you are interested in read where to find the likely location of the model number plate on that appliance.

    Type of Appliance Model Number Plate Location
    Refrigerator Located on the inside of the refrigerator, on the wall.
    Freestanding Range Located on the frame of the range behind the storage drawer for FSR products.
    Single Built-In Oven Located on the left side of the front frame at the bottom.
    Double Built-In Oven Located on the lower oven. You need to open the door to see it.
    Cooktop Located on the bottom of the burner box.
    Microwave Ovens Located inside the microwave cavity on the front frame.
    Hood & Vent Located underneath the unit when installed.
    Dishwasher Located in front of the door seal, on the tub, top left-hand corner.
    Top Load Washer Located on the top, in the rear of the well to the clothes container. It is visible once you open the lid.
    Front Load Washer Located vertically on the outer edge of the door.
    Top Load Dryer Located inside the door, in the upper recessed area of the front panel.
    Front Load Dryer Located horizontally on the shroud, inside the door, right in front of the lint screen.

    If you have trouble locating the model number
    please call us Toll-Free at 1-800-843-03

Contact Us

(866) 616-2664

Mon-Fri: 8 am - 8 pm (ET)

553 Benson Road
Benton Harbor, MI 49022

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